i’ve been a chef for over three decades now! i trained in chennai and started off with the taj hotel group. i’ve owned nilgiri’s indian restaurant in sydney for over 15 years. i’m on a mission to dispel the myth that indian food is no more than a ‘curry in a hurry’! come with me as i try and educate. indian food is my passion (alongside cricket!) and i’m enjoying exploring the new social media to fulfil this passion! i’ve also published cookery books, been on tv, the radio, won awards! now i’m also moving into making cookery videos. these are simple and easy to follow and don’t go on for hours like some Bollywood movies!
Put simply, I don’t know!
So, I ask my son, Aniruddh, and he says, “Dad, what made you cook Indian is what will…..” but I cut him short because I know he thinks that what made me cook Indian food is what will make a young chef do so.
So, I hang my head sadly and reply in all seriousness, so serious that I can tell my son thinks something is afoot, “I don’t think so, son. I have been looking around for a young chef who could (possibly) run nilgiri’s restaurant and maybe even take over the place. But what will make him cook Indian?”
“Well, dad,” he replies in the matter of fact ways only young kids can, “Indian food does not have the ‘glamour‘ that the other cuisines have. It’s seen as too ‘dull’ and too ‘boring’. Everything is seen as a ‘curry’, so how do you expect anyone to get into this when all you do is cook a ‘bit of this and a bit of that’ with curry powder? Young chefs want something exciting, something cool and something fancy! Indian food does not offer that.”
I’m not really surprised by his answer and I tell him so, “You are right right, son. But would you like to cook Indian food if you became a chef?” I ask.
After a long pause, he says, watching me carefully, “No dad, but I would like to cook Modern Australian food with an Indian touch,” and he leaves it there but then adds quietly, “if I ever become a chef.”
Now that is a very smart answer and I tell him so, because you can get away with anything and say this is ‘Mod Oz’ even if you don’t know the basics and certainly have no fre…ng idea whatsoever about the use of spices and the philosophy of Indian food.
Cooking today is all about marketing and hype.
It has nothing to do with either knowledge or skill.
Look at all the so-called Indian cookery books and it is no surprise that the only thing they talk about is the ‘curries’ from different parts of India. Nothing is said about the different techniques used in Indian cooking, like dum or baghar. Similarly, there is no mention about the reason for the use of spices like achari masala for pickling, or the use of dry chillies and fresh chillies.
“Son,” I tell him, “every dish has a story to tell and that is what makes it so colourful and so full of flavour.” It might not have the ‘hype’ or ‘hipster’ trendiness to it but what’s amazing is that I see these kids wanting their vegan food and vegan cafes and chai lattes and I think, “Great! That’s the sort of food that is in my blood.”
And so I follow my son into the kitchen and while he makes a sandwich I continue. He listens because he knows it means we’ll watch the cricket later together!
“Take this dish that I am making today. It is called hare masale ka pulao, it’s nothing fancy, it’s just a green herb baked rice dish (pulao).” And I proceed to cook the dish.
When I go back to Hyderabad, my mother makes it with all the love and affection that it deserves, cause it is my favourite!!
As for the technique, the herbs must be finely puréed, with no water (as this will discolour them) when cooking. They need to be bhunaoed, or fried, with the vegetables to retain the colour. The rice needs to be soaked beforehand, as we have done in previous blogs such as What unites Runs, Coronet.. , and it must be cooked in 2½ parts of liquid (by the absorption) method.
I know what my son is saying. I know that the young kids, the young chefs, want the ‘wow’ factor and to mix cultures. I think that’s to be encouraged. I know we all like the hype and get moved by it. But like the bicycle movement, or the slow food movement, I also want to return to basics, to have real knowledge, real discussion and real passion in cooking. We all like froth but it’s important to have good substance beneath it!
So, please follow the method for this vegan dish. By the way, if you want to keep the accompaniments vegan, please simply omit the buttermilk, you’ll still have a delicious side dish. Please let me know what you think of it. Also, if you prefer a one-page listing of the ingredients for the pulao, please click green pulao recipe. For the coconut and spinach accompaniment, please click coconut spinach recipe.
Blending the coriander and mint
Cooking the vegetable pulao
Crackle only half the spices, grind the rest and set aside, covered.
Whilst the pulao is in the oven, there is plenty of time to make the garnishes and optional sauce (vegetarian, not vegan).
How to julienne ginger
Optional sauce (vegetarian)
So I dish out the hare masale ka pulao along with the saag ka raita and hand it over to my son. As he comes back for seconds, he says, “Dad, this is great but could you please call it ‘green herb and summer vegetable risotto with baby spinach, shredded coconut and buttermilk relish’!!
Anah Daata Sukhi Bhava!!!